Olympic National Park: Experiencing Other Characters

Hurricane Ridge & the Olympic Mountains

After leaving Vancouver we headed south to spend a few nights in Olympic National Park – home of Mount Olympus and, for me, one of the best non-swimming beaches I have set foot on.

On the way through we stopped off in Port Angeles where we were hosted by Lonnie through Couch Surfing – yet another win for Couch Surfing! To say Lonnie is a champ wouldn't be doing him justice! He's a 70 year who lives just outside P.A. and has a large property in which he is continually adding Couch Surfing abodes to. At the moment he has 4 private chalet style buildings dedicated solely to Couch Surfers and 'Warm Showers' (a very similar concept to CS but focused more on cyclists). He's also just finished a stage which we were lucky enough to witness the breaking in of with a jam session on the Saturday night. And he is in the midst of converting a trailer home into 4-5 bedrooms for guests to use – he does all this off his own back and simply because he wanted to make use of the space he has. Oh yeah, and he has a collection of exotic birds! Champ just doesn't do him justice! He's the kind of guy you feel privileged to have met on your travels – there are a few of these guys out there and he is definitely one of them.

Lonnie's Crib

We had also ordered some new camping gear to be collected from Walmart in P.A. and after a trial run and some wise words from Lonnie we sorted out a few kinks in our array and headed back to Walmart to exchange a few items. Tip One: you don't need a lantern when you can pick up a solar powered torch for $5. Tip Two: Make sure you can light your stove. Tip Three: Make sure your blow-up mattress fits in your 'waterproof' tent! Haha. We didn't really need this tip, but let me tell you it's a tight squeeze! Apparently Walmart aren't too precise on their dimensions, but they have no dramas with exchanges!

So after a night with Lonnie we set off for Mora Campground, right on the coast of Washington. Along the drive we stopped off at Lake Crescent – a turquoise blue lake just waiting to be churned up by a wake boat – but alas it wasn’t to be. We also stopped off at Madison and Marymere Falls – both short hikes off the main road, and both worth the stretch of the legs.

Madison and Marymere Falls

Close to Mora Campground was Rialto Beach – as mentioned previously possibly the best non-swimming beach I have been to. The high shore line is littered with drift wood and debris that make a natural playground I could, and did, spends hours on. Wrists ended up a little sore afterwards, so did the shin after a humourous stack.

Rialto Beach

After a rather cold night in our quality camping gear we checked out Rialto beach further and made the trek out to Hole in the Wall – which actually isn't as impressive as the driftwood if you ask me. Still it was good to get some sunshine and see what else the beach had to offer.

Hand-standing around at Hole in the Wall (this isn't the Hole in the Wall but its probably more impressive)

For the rest of the day we headed over to the other side of the river to the Indian reserve of La Push, and its beaches. Both beaches, Third and Second, would be a great spot to have a dip had the weather, and water been a little warmer.

2nd and 3rd Beaches at La Push

The following day we did what most people who come to Olympic N.P. do and checked out Forks – the town Twilight is set in. A quick tour of the place, mainly because despite the Hollywood hype it's a tiny, unassuming town, we got off a couple of snaps of the Twilight zones and made our way out to Hoh Rainforest.

The Twilight Zone

After careful selection of the best available camp site – pretty much all sites were available – we made camp and relaxed in the sun for a while. After a few strenuous hours we headed into the heart of the rainforest and took in a few trails. Nothing too spectacular but definitely worth a look – some of the trees still standing are older than you Bazil!

Hall of Mosses within the Hoh Rainforest

Back at camp we got out the trusty 5 piece sports set of Walmart quality and proceeded to break a few more of the items (don't worry we'll exchange the ones that require exchanging – Walmart has a great exchange policy – they don't care! And we'll fix the ones that we can fix – duct tape fixes everything!).

After a night around our little camp fire we packed up and made tracks early'ish the next morning and it was here we met Jim. Like Lonnie, Jim was a guy you feel fortunate to have met. He is a 72 year old who has roped his mate into driving him up to the northern part of Alaska where he is setting out to walk all the way down to the southern tip of Chile. He did this 25 years ago on a motorbike, after completing the USA Four Corners Tour (San Ysidro, CA; Blaine, WA; Madawaska, ME; Key West, FL). When he finally got down to Chile he looked into shipping his bike back to San Fran but the cost was too high, so he jumped back on his trusty old steed and rode back home. He doesn't plan on returning from this trip though – he told me he'll either cark it on the way down, or be pretty much done if he makes it the entire way. He reckons he's old enough to go out with a bang! You can follow him online @rollingsouth.com

Pick of the litter (in regards to campsites)

Lonnie was the kind of guy you feel privileged to have met because of the experiences you have with him – there are more of these kind of people out there than those like Jim. Jim is the kind of guy you feel fortunate to have met because of his experiences – you sort of live through his stories. Calvin was a guy we met in Israel who fits this bill, but he is probably the only other one.

After leaving Jim to his merry old ways we made our way back to Lonnie's for the Saturday night jam session. Along the way we stopped in at Sol Duc Falls – probably the most impressive falls within the park, but again had nothing on Iguazu, but then again few do! 

Sol Duc Falls

That night we sampled a few of the finer brews on offer at Walmart ($7.50 for a six pack of any IPA had me frothing at the mouth), sat around the bonfire and listened to the oldies rock out.

Just your casual Saturday night at Lonnie's

The next day was planning day, so with the weather permitting we headed up to Hurricane Ridge. We had eagerly and rookily tried this on our first day with no success – you couldn't see more than 10m in front of you so we really don't know why we made the trip up there in the first place. But second time round was a success and the view you get is amazing. The weather granted us a perfect views of the Olympic Mountains and the valley below, but we couldn’t have it all our way with the view on the opposite side back down to Port Angeles and the coast obscured by cloud.

The Olympic Mountains

Olympic N.P. doesn't really rate on too many people's hit lists of American N.P. but we definitely enjoyed our time there. It's not a must-see by any stretch, but if you have some time, drop Lonnie a line and get amongst it.

Vancouver II: How The Weather Can Change Your Mind

One of the many scenic vistas on the Sea to Sky Hwy

I had previously written that Vancouver hadn't quite lived up to expectations. Well now it has! And although it would be rude to credit this change of opinion entirely to the weather (the people I hung around with this time should really get 95% of the credit), the weather just seemed to get everyone in the mood to make the most of each day.

I only had a weekend in Van before Nic flew back from Aus, and the sun was out from the moment I arrived in town to the moment we left. This resulted in a fair amount of beverages being consumed, which most of you may already know is one of my favourite past times. Not that you can't do this in shitty weather, its just so much better doing it in the sun! The other past time that ranks up there is activities – combine the two and you have me hook, line and sinker.

But as I mentioned the people I stayed with on this trip definitely were the difference between the two visits. I stayed the majority of the time with a mate from uni, Benny, and his crew. They are all so welcoming that its hard not to feel part of the group. Compare this with staying at a hostel and a run down motel, and it's easy to see the difference.

In a sense Van reminded me a little of London, in that there are so many young people calling Van home on part of an extended trip that you all seem to meet at some point along the line. Benny's crew are no different, but they do seem to pick up people along the way from all over the shop. The person you have the connection with doesn’t even have to live in Van for you to be welcomed in – you are taken in no matter what!

This is what made my stop in Van so much better this time around. Nights out with like-minded people, getting introduced to the classier side of the city (not really hard to seem classier than East Hastings), and catching up with old friends and new!

Cheers for changing my opinion Van!

Whistler: The Season That Wasn't...Or Was

Whistler Peak and the view from Whistler Peak

So Nic and I have just finished close to 6 months of being in the same place. Usually this means we have returned home, or got proper jobs, and are back to some resemblance of reality. At this stage we are champing at the bit to get back on the road.

Well, Whistler isn't like most places!

I would say, without exaggerating this number, that 9 out of 10 people you meet aren't locals (in fact I’m not too sure I have actually met a born and bred local!). Yes, some of them may have been here for 10 or 15 years, but 10 years ago, they came like the rest of us to do a season, or two, and just never left. Parentals, don't worry, I don't think we will be one of those people, but you never know!

Whistler just has this charm that keeps you here. Or at least keeps you coming back.

Symphony Bowl seen from Harmony Ridge

For any of those reading this that are into their snow sports, you may very well know that all over North America the season has been average at best. But even so, our time here has been insane. The variety of terrain on offer in Whistler is second to none, and the village would be hard pushed to be rivaled by any other ski resort in North America – this may sound like a lot of bullshit given I haven't been anywhere else in North America, but it is what I have heard. And most of you would know I don't argue things I don't know anything about!

But even if the season was the worst in 'x' number of years (lots of people seem to love telling you how bad the season is, as if it were your personal fault), it still had its moments.

Going from the snow fall reports, March was our second best month, but for most it was easily the best. The crowds has thinned out, we actually got a few powder days, and for once, rain didn't immediately follow any snow. So you actually got a chance to enjoy the multitude of bowls on offer. Getting face shots late in March and April, you can't help but smile.

Cider night

Now the snow in those latter months wasn't the best, its no Japan dry powder, but the terrain it opened up more than made up for it. I'm sure there are some 'snow snobs' types out there (usually those who have been here for 10-15 years) that wouldn't have even bothered with it, but for most of us, it was a long time coming and we made the most of it. I remember coming out here in '08/'09 and was only able to ride Whistler Peak and Symphony one day each, and I was here until early February. So if you ask me, these last few month have been where it's at.

Another reason we aren't jumping out of our skins to get back on the road is the friends we have made throughout the season. That's not to say some of them are jumping out of their skins to see us gone, but we have managed to drag a few of them down into the U.S. to see what Sasquatch! is all about. It's a four day music festival in Washington State for those uninformed. And it should be a solid start to the summer.

The season had a fair few laughs and mishaps along the way. I would say half the people I met in Whistler injured themselves in some way, shape or form throughout the season. Some more serious than others, and some more inconvenient than others. There were broken collarbones, ribs, concussions, too many wrists to count and even a broken back. Nic and I both fared well in the stacks category with Nic breaking her wrist early in the season, but as usual I normally have to out do her so I broke both wrists towards the end of the season. Lucky for me (and probably Nic) I was able to get away with one arm in a cast and the other in a removable splint which allowed me to operate as a semi-functional human.

I still wipe my own....

There were days towards the end of the season where you could snowboard in the morning, ride the bike park in the arvo and then chill out by the lake with a few cold froths as the sun went down. If you can tell me of another place on the planet that has that plethora of activities to be had, let me know cos that's where we'll go next season!

Wind-lip session up on Blackcomb Glacier

I was also introduced to a number of 'life changing' events throughout the season. Firstly and fore-mostly, was the introduction to the 'Gang Bang'. No not that kind! A 'Gang Bang' is a Maccas burgher that will change your Maccas experience for life. First you get a McDouble (double cheese burger for those uninitiated), you open it up and put a Junior Chicken inside – yes the whole burger. What you are left with is a burger combo of bun, meat, cheese, bun, chicken, bun, cheese, meat and bun...all for about $3.50! I have vowed to never order anything different from Maccas again!

The 'Gangbang'!

The others are less 'life changing' and more just pretty fricken cool.

Beers in the 'Sun Pit' up on Whistler, complete with a BBQ and a view for days is something not many people do but definitely worth it if you know where the pit is! Quiffle is golf's younger, more attractive cousin. Sort of like natural mini golf? Firstly, cos the course we played was literally just in the woods. Secondly, each hole is about as long as your standard mini gold courses. But unlike mini golf there is no putter required, and beers are mandatory! Like the 'pitch and putts' of Ireland, Quiffle is my kind of golf. A perforated ball, one club and one shot per hole, its sort of like an ongoing contest of closest to the pin, but in the middle of the woods, and did I mention beers?

The Sun Pit

That is what Spring time in Whistler is all about – riding, swimming (if you're brave enough), biking, hiking, relaxing, just generally doing whatever you like. But most of all not working!

So taking a step back, I have almost done 2 seasons in Whistler, none of which you would write home about, and yet I will be back one day. Whether its for another season, a quick trip to jog the memories, or for any other reason, we will be back.

It's just the Whistler way!

Peak 2 Peak