Foz do Iguaçu: F_ck Virgins, Let’s Get Drunk!

  Cataratas do Iguaçu in all its glory

I must apologise for the vulgar language used in the title, but hopefully it will become apparent shortly. I should also point out that the Iguaçu Falls are one of the most specular natural phenomena that I have seen to date – they rate alongside the Serengeti, Torres del Paine, Wadi Rum, Petra, Abu Simbel (not that those last two are natural) and far exceeds Victoria Falls (although we did only get to see Vic Falls during low water, and we didn’t go to the Zambia side so maybe a little harsh on the ‘far exceeds’ call).

We spent two days at Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, one in Brazil and one in Argentina. Our first was spent on the Brazilian side, and we were amazed at how much a part of the falls you were able to feel. The walkways allow you too actually walk above some of the falls and get near on in the mouths of some of the others. The other thing that blew us away was the sheer number of falls. Each one would be worth a 2 hour hike and entrance fee on their own right, but Iguaçu Falls gives you between 150 and 300 (depending on water levels) to ‘wet’ your appetite on. And given the recent rains in the area I would hazard a guess that we were nearing the 250 mark.

Overlooking Salto Floriano, Benjamin Constant (Brazil) & Belgrano (Argentina)

Unfortunately the recent rains and subsequent high water levels had caused a significant amount of damage to a number of walkways on the Argentinian side. We debated whether we would do this side, as we were required to pay our Argentinian visa of $100 US, which is valid for a year, but we don’t have any intention of returning to Argentina this year. So $100 for one day is at the high end of our budget. But in the end common sense prevailed, and we made the trip across the border. And although I would love to have been able to get out to the platform above Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat), I was not in the least bit disappointed.

Salto Tres Mosqueteros (Argentina)

Salto Floriano (Brazil), Isla San Martin & Salto Mbiguá (Argentina)

Salto Bossetti, Eva, Guardaparque Bernabé Méndez & Mbiguá (Argentina)

The Brazilian side gives you the grander view of the falls, but the Argentinian side allow you to feel, or experience the falls. The walkways wind themselves between, over and almost under some of the falls. You get to take them in from their highest point all the way down to where they crash into the lower Iguaçu River, all whilst getting drenched from head to toe. An unbelievable experience, and one definitely worth the price of admission.

Overlooking Salto Ramirez & Bossetti (Argentina)

Trying to get a clear photo in the trying conditions was quite the mission

We split these two days of enjoying the falls with a night out for the Brazil v Germany semi-final, and a night in for the Holland v Argentina semi. For the Brazil game we thought we would try and get in amongst the locals and sample a few froths, and take in what we had hoped to be some great atmosphere.

The first place we tried were charging a minimum R$75 (that is you need to order a minimum of R$75 worth of food and drink, or you will be charged the R$75 regardless), and given Nic was thinking of having a night off the turps we thought this was a little too much. The next place told us they only had a R$15 door price…Well so we thought. Probably should have had them write the price down, as a few disappointed hours later, we were informed of the correct price.

Anyway, we got ourselves a table with a good view of the tele and sat back as the pub began to fill. The place was packed by kick off but that was about as good as it got. In the space of 5 minutes the Brazilians in the place went from upbeat, to hopeful, to shocked, to sad, to complete an utter emotionally traumatised – maybe that’s stretching it a little, but they really didn’t know what to do with themselves. We didn’t know how they were going to react, but to their credit, they realised they were completely and utterly outplayed, and in the second half the majority if the fans still in the pub took to applauding the remaining goals and scoring chances of both sides. A credit to them.

The pub quickly emptied soon after the final whistle and we followed suite. Only to be informed that the R$15 door price we had heard was actually R$50, and we were all a few drinks short of this magic number. We also got our third shock/surprise of the night when we realised they had charged Nic full price for a virgin piña colada – really it is her own fault for being responsible and not drinking. Well that changed 5 minutes and 2 cocktails later! (Hence the title)

Once we had all reached our quota, R$50 each exactly, we headed to the check out to pay the bill. It is somewhat standard in Brazil to tip 10% and all along we have been happy to pay this, as the service is usually top notch. On this occasion, we felt we had been jipped a number of times, and decided that this particular restaurant did not deserve and extra R$15 for simply for opening a few long necks for me and Al, and seducing unknowing virgins along the way. Yes, petty I know. Anyway, apparently we were wrong on this front as well. A tip is not standard or customary, it is mandatory – at least at our favourite pub in Foz do Iguaçu it was.

Given we weren’t jumping at the chance to head back there the next night to watch the second semi, we decided to stay in at the hostel and enjoy it there. Most of us, or at least us 3, were hoping for a Holland victory, not so much because we like Holland, more so that an Argentina loss would have resulted in a Brazil v Argentina 3^rd place match, which may have added a little spice to what I’m sure (and I may be wrong here) is usually, pretty much, a dead rubber.

Alas, it was not to be, so we will have to settle for a World Cup Final in Rio not involving Brazil – not a bad consolation prize!

Native fauna of Parque Nacional do Iguaçu