| Pretty much the same shot from 6.5 years ago |
Now
Grand Canyon was slightly different second time round but to explain
that I should probably take a step back and give you some insight
into 2008.
Now
this was to be my first big overseas trip so Bazil had some sound
advice, 'try and take it easy on your first night'. Now I may have
missed part of the message here, as although the first night overseas
was a quiet one, the first night of the Contiki tour ended with me in
a drunk tank in San Diego. So the next major city we hit, Phoenix, we
got back to the hotel in the early hours of the morning and did the
smart thing and stayed in the room for the rest of the night. Well we
thought it would be a smart idea.
A
few of the other lads had an early morning hot-air ballooning ride to
get up for, so we decided the smart move would be to pull an
all-nighter so they didn't miss their ride. Well it worked for them
but not so much for me. I woke up to the alarm blaring, me kipped up
between the two beds and the tour bus long gone.
Anyway,
long story short, a bus ride that didn't quite get me back to the
group, and a $160 taxi ride later I finally made it to the Grand
Canyon. Fair to say I wasn't in much of a state to really get the
most out of the canyon, but I still loved it.
Second
time round was a whole 'nother story.
Now
I said different but it didn't necessarily get off to the best start.
Our first glimpse of the canyon was through overcast and cloudy
skies, not really conducive to the best photographic opportunities.
Still we headed west along the rim towards Hermits Rest, braving the
rain along the way and getting a pretty good impression of the canyon
as a whole.
| South Western Rim |
It
was now that we decided we wanted to trek down into the heart of the
canyon and stay overnight. We knew it would be a tough hike with all
our gear but the more we thought about it, the more we wanted to do
it.
| A glimpse of the switchbacks we decided to put ourselves through |
Then
proceeded the longest night of the trip so far. And we've had 12 hour
layovers in Brazilian airports.
Hoping
to get a good night's sleep before the hike didn't quite turn out as
planned. It rained for 16 hours straight. And not the good type of
rain either (although I don't think there is a good type of rain when
you live in a $20 tent), rather it was that bone-drenching drizzle
that just keeps on coming with no end in sight.
Not
knowing whether to chance it and head on the hike, we waited for the
morning to pass and see what the afternoon provided. After a few
hours of waiting, and still no real end in sight of the rain, we
thought stuff it, let's give it a crack.
| Things didn't look promising at the start |
We
would say it's one of the toughest things we have ever done, but also
one of the most rewarding.
The
hike down, 7 miles via the South Kaibab Trail, is relatively easy,
well when compared with the walk up. Even though it's when your pack
is at it's heaviest, it's always easier walking downhill than uphill.
And luck was also on our side, as an hour into the hike the rain
finally subsided.
Getting deeper into the Canyon
| Our first real look at the Colorado River |
That
night we also missed the forecast showers and the early morning
thunderstorm that threatened but just didn't eventuate. We had the
wind, the thunder and the lightning but the rain held off.
The
walk up was a whole different ball game. It was 9.6 miles… and all
uphill. We had been told to prepare ourselves for a good 6 hours of
torture but we managed to knock it out in 5. The plus side of the
hike out via Bright Angel Trail is that apart from the first 4.5
miles, there is water stations every 1.5 mile so you can drop a heap
of weight from your packs. The bad part is that although the first
mile is somewhat flat, the rest surely isn't. Throw in an 8-10kg pack
and that shite gets tiring after 20 minutes. Come and see me after 5
hours!
Nic
took the brunt of the pain and by the end of it her blisters had
blisters! Still she toughed it out and we were both pretty stoked to
reach the top by the end of it. The views you get along the hike are
unbelievable. There is a whole other world down there – an entirely
different environment, and countless features that would be
breathtaking on their own but somehow get lost in the vastness that
is the Grand Canyon.
I
had previously written about Canyonlands rivaling the Grand Canyon.
Now I can't quite say I agree with that statement, at least not 100%,
but I will offer this. They are both worth the visit and both unique
in their own way.
We
did completely different things in each park, and I would easily go
back to both (Canyonlands first though). I think the problem people
have with the Grand Canyon is the sheer size of it, which is ironic
as it's size is what makes it 'grand'.
The
reason I say this is because it's hard to get an appreciation of it
due to its immense magnitude. Those smaller, finer details and
features you pick out in other parks are missed because, sometimes,
you don't know where to look. It has so many things going on that
half of it is swallowed by the depths of the canyon.
Getting
down into the canyon definitely makes you appreciate it, so don't be
one of the 'snob' travelers and skip the Grand Canyon because it's
too mainstream, or been done before. Give yourself a couple of nights
and experience one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World
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