Sunday, 19 July 2015

Las Vegas Round 2: What Are the Odds You'd…?

Vegas Bitches!
We left you last post on a cliffhanger…Haha.

In the 5 minutes we had to research a place and book it we settled on a cheap motel in Barstow, CA. A place we thought was close enough to spend a day, or so, in Death Valley, along with a day trip over to Sequoia National Park. It also looked close enough to check out Joshua Tree National Park as well so we thought we had come up trumps.

In our rush booking the hotel we didn't really look into exactly where the entrances to the parks were, and as such, what looked like under an hours drive to each park, would have been 3 and 4 hours respectively.

We got back into Vegas on the Monday after a weekend of doing pretty much nothing. It was practically an admin weekend, shite it almost felt like we had a job of sorts – so we couldn't let that last and got back into Sin City ready to give it a fair old nudge.

Second time round we were staying at Hostel Cat – not much to the place but they do organise some pretty decent activities, and it had a basketball hoop. And on a side note they are wedged in between a tattoo parlor and one of the seediest looking strip joints in Vegas...and that's saying something.


Few quiet ones at The Cat!
I should add, to the disappointment of a lot of you, that we didn't enter either of these fine establishments, but I did have a funny altercation with the meth-head tattoo artist. After locating a basketball within the hostel I decided to have a few shots. After 10 minutes or so, my new mate crawled out of the gutter known as his tattoo shop and told me 'Game's over buddy!' Given I had just woefully missed I thought he was actually being funny. I apologised to him for the noise, you know cos there's noise restriction in Vegas at 7pm on a Tuesday, and was given the tart reply of 'I don't give a f_ck. As soon as I find my angle grinder I'm going to cut the f_cking thing down!' Again I thought he was joking but looking a little closer at old mate revealed he had two cutting disks in his hand and really was only missing the grinder!

Safe to say I didn't play any more ball, but old mate didn't find his grinder either!

First night we met a few of the other hostel crew over a cheap dinner and then got fairly stuck into the beers before the group consensus was to hit up one of the premier night clubs in town – Marquee at the Cosmopolitan.


Marquee

With our ratio of girls to guys being OK, the hostel said they could get us all in for $15 each, as opposed to somewhere in the realm of $50 each. So 28 of us piled into a 15 seater van – good old bench seats are the way to go when it comes to packing cadets into a car – and headed to the strip.

Before getting in, the hostel's 'Events Manager' advised us to grab some cheap drinks, possibly bottles we could sneak in, because not too many of us would be impressed with drink prices within the club. So bottle of Captain Morgans in tow we hit the biggest and best club I have ever been to.

We proceeded to lose pretty much everyone else in the crew apart from Bec, but still had a solid night. I can't say I can remember all of the finer details, but I will say that Captain Morgans possibly wasn't the best choice of spirit to drink straight! Who would have thought?

Captain Morgans can have that effect
Surprisingly we weren't too bad the next morning, not quite good enough to get up in time for the 10.30am breakfast cut off, but I think we were somewhat functioning before mid day.

Being the frugal and forward planning travelers we like to believe we are, we had not only kept our two room keys from the Venetian, we had managed to 'lose' a couple whilst we were there. This meant we had 4 keys in total and could get a number of us into the pools if we felt the need.

So a few of us crammed into Rodge and spent the afternoon chilling by the pools and then hit the casino floor for some 25 cent blackjack and more importantly $1 drinks.

That night the hostel took us down to a more local bar in Fremont. $5 entry may seem a little pricey for the area, or for the establishment for that matter, but 5 cent beers more than made up for that. You may not believe the 5 cent tag there but honestly you laid down a $1 bill and grabbed as many beers as you could carry. For most of us that was 4 and it included your tip. It was actually a pretty low key night compared to the Monday but it does have the all the makings of a huge one if that's where you want to take it.

Wednesday was probably the best day I have had in a city for a very long time. We gathered a decent size crew from the hostel and roped them in with our stories of the Mirage buffet from the week before. It also happened to be that the 'best' pool party in town on Wednesday was at the Venetian, and given we still had the 4 room keys it would be highly possible we could get a good dozen or so others in for free.

We got to the buffet a little later than we would have liked, but more than made up for that by the end of it. How we didn't get kicked out is beyond me, but I supposed they are used to that in Vegas. Actually none of us were too bad, just a little louder than most of the others in the room. Drinking games tend to have that affect!


Buffet Crew
What are the odds you'd skull 4 glasses of red in 4 minutes?

Fair to say the others were as impressed with the buffet as we were, and then the pool party was just icing on the top. It actually wasn't anything special, it was really quiet given it was a Wednesday, but given most of us are on 'backpackeer' budgets it was still pretty good fun. Throw in a handful of free drinks bought for us from some of the 'proper' Vegas punters and we made sure we had a good time!

Making the most of a free pool party
That night a few of us headed down to Fremont for a look around – it's the less glamorous side of tourist Vegas but still worth a look before returning to the hostel to chill out drinking a few quiet ones, throwing in a few 'what are the odds you'd...' (insert something stupid here-mainly revolved around drinking) to spice things up, gearing up to head back out on the town.


What are the odds you'd lie down in the middle of the street to watch the light show? F_ck it looks like a good view from down there, let's come and join!
The Fremont Street Experience - what we were actually watching
Nic and I made the somewhat responsible decision to skip the club given the states we, or more likely I, was in (what are the odds of that?) but the others headed out for a rather interesting night. Twice throughout the day we got to see first hand the efficient effectiveness of alcohol in bringing out someone's 'other self'. One lad went from rather shy and unassuming to some kind of human leech in the space of 4 red wines in 4 minutes. Good old Vinny Chase. And another went from a pretty funny, decent lad to some sort of misogynistic pig. Well not some sort of, he was an out and out dick. I am happy to report that I was neither of these guys!

And even though we made the sensible decision to have an early night, early for Vegas standards anyway, the next day proceeded to be one of the longest and toughest of my life. I reckon if I was an animal, anyone who came across me that day would have shot me to put me out of my misery! Nic didn't have the best of days either, given she had to drive practically the entire way to San Diego! But I’ll get to that story next time.

Vegas will always remain one of our favourite places. Everything is bigger, better and way more over the top in America, and Vegas is the jewel in that over-the-top crown! And even though it practically broke me, we will be back!

Saturday, 18 July 2015

Las Vegas: Where Excess is Success

Caesars Palace
Sometimes the Yanks get it right. And sometimes they get it f_cking spot on.

For us, Vegas was insane.

After the majority of the last month spent living in a tent, we felt we owed it to ourselves to splurge and book into one of the 5 star strip hotels. Nic being the booking genius she is got us a standard suite at the Venetian that didn't break the bank but it sure as hell did ruin all other hotel rooms for us.

Finally a pool we didn't have to sneak into!
We are used to having the bed take up 95% of the floor space, and definitely no space to swing a cat, but this had everything. A bathroom bigger than most rooms we have stayed in, a living area we haven't seen since Whistler and a king size bed that is going to make it hard to go back to the tent. There is just something about being able to stretch your legs fully that you don't really realize until it's taken away from you.

Slightly bigger than our $20 tent
Given we had splurged on the room, we thought it pertinent of us to try and do things on the cheap in Vegas – if that's possible.

For most that have been to Vegas there are usually two ways – spending a shite tonne of money and having the time of your life, or keeping things under control and having the time of your life.

It is so easy to go down either path it just depends on which one you want. As most would know you actually shouldn't really be paying too much for your alcohol in Vegas. Being on the casino floor, playing any game you like, grants you access to the complimentary drinks on offer. It doesn't matter if you're playing 25 cent black jack, or putting down a gorilla, you are more than welcome to pretty much any standard drink you can think of. The difference would be the frequency at which your server returns to you. I also think throwing down a G may get you some more benefits but you get my drift.

We took on the 25 cent blackjack machines, and putting in $5 and getting about 6-7 doubles out of it, it doesn't really matter if you come away with any of that original $5 if you ask me.

Spin that wheel...and bring me back some more drinks!
We also got on board the brunch buffets, and that train just keeps on giving. We found a place that sold vouchers for the buffet at the Mirage for half price. So for $15 we spent a good 3-4 hours at the best buffet we have ever gorged ourselves at. I have previously written that I lose all self control when it comes to buffets, and when you throw in unlimited beer and wine, and good beer at that, there was no way I was walking out of there with my dignity in tact.

I actually didn't embarrass myself too badly, and I do endeavor to go back.

Just a few quiet ones with all our mates
We spent our nights walking the strip, dropping into which ever casino took our fancy. The fact that you can walk down the street with a cold beverage in your hand, drop into a casino to check out their feature attraction, or play a few hands of cheap blackjack and sample a few doubles, is what makes Vegas what it is – unbelievable!

The Strip - The Wynn & The Venetian

The canals of the Venetian, the hanging gardens of the Wynn, the volcano of the Mirage, the sheer size and audacity of Caesars Palace, the conservatory and water fountains of the Bellagio, the flamingo park of the Flamingo, the colours of the Excalibur, the cities within themselves that are Paris, New York New York and the Luxor, and Mandalay Bay, a building that is more resplendent in it's golden shine during the daytime than at night; it's where excess and decadence meet and its awesome!


The Strip - MGM Grand, New York New York & the Excalibur

When we first looked into booking Vegas we ran into a slight problem – the weekend we planned to be there for was EDC Weekend. Electronic Daisy Carnival, a music festival that only Vegas would put on. The festival runs over 3 nights, gigs don't get under way until the sun is well on is way towards the horizon and don't stop until the sun is well on it's way back up again. Only in Vegas! Have a look online at some of the scenes that come out of that weekend and you'll get an idea of how crazy it is.


Probably the two most photographed scenes in Vegas!

Anyway the prices over the weekend were too far out of our price range so we planned on spending the time out in Death Valley. Problem with that was that the temps were going be in the range of 50°C, and high winds at night wasn't quite what we were looking for.

So in the space of 5 minutes we made some 'well' informed decisions that may or may not have turned out to be the right ones...
But that is a story for another day.

Wednesday, 8 July 2015

Zion National Park: Everything's Coming Up Milhouse...Well Almost Everything

Big Bend and Angels Landing (the razorback) viewed from Scout's Lookout
Zion was billed as one of the best parks in the U.S. and probably one we had the highest expectations of. Everyone knows of Yellowstone and Yosemite, but those you meet on the 'National Parks' tour always rave about Zion.

Where Zion tends to differ from the others, is that to see the highlights of Zion you actually have to be a 'hiker'. What this means is that the 'strenuous' category hikes you usually go on to escape the mob, are where the mob flock too. Not that this is a bad thing, because like all 'must see' sights, there's a pretty good reason they are labeled as such.

Now obviously, we, like everyone else who visits Zion, loved it. But it wasn't love at first sight, but things just had a way of working themselves out.

Canyon Overlook (l-r): Bridge Mountain, West Temple, Alter of Sacrifice, the Streaked Wall & the Sentinel
Knowing how popular Zion is we tried to get in as early as possible, problem was everyone else had the same idea. We missed out on a campsite within the park by less than half an hour. But following the advice from one of the rangers we tried one of the RV parks just outside the park boundaries. And luck would have it we got the last 'tent' site which had just been vacated and happened to be right on the Virgin River. The added bonus to being in an RV park was, although it's a little more expensive, you do get running water, which meant shower tokens and the possibility of hot showers. And more importantly we found out a place that would be showing the NBA Finals – priorities people, priorities! Pity that didn't quite work out how I would have liked, but you get that.

We checked in here for the weekend nights and then using the wifi of the RV Park, reserved two nights back in the park. Given our penchant for living on the cheap side, and our proximity to the river, we saved one of the tokens each and planned to sneak back into the RV park later in the week and enjoy a 'stolen' shower or two – ah the good life!

Now Zion has two major highlights and they are as good as it gets. Angels Landing and the Narrows are both completely different, in fact you couldn't get two more vastly different hikes, but both rank up there in the top hikes we have done in the U.S.

Angels Landing and its razorback final section

Billed as one of the most thrilling and memorable hikes in the national park system, Angels Landing is not for the fainthearted, but this didn't seem to have a huge effect on how many punters were keen to give it a crack. After making your way up 'Walter's Wiggles', a series of 21 morale-sapping switchbacks, you come to Scout's Lookout. Here you are provided with impressive views of Zion Canyon, but more impressive is the sight of your final 0.5 miles of the hike – a narrow sandstone ridge up the backbone of Angels Landing. With 1000 feet drops on either sides, and no guard rails, and the way up assisted by a series of chains, rarely is such an intimidating hike frequented by so many. But the views in every direction give you an idea why so many attempt it. The hike is probably more intimidating from afar than it is up close but it's still pretty daunting nonetheless.

Panoramic view from the top
Nic said it was probably the second most hairy hike we have done. The first was one we never should have attempted: back in Cinque Terre where a recent rockslide had made the path impassable to most people with half a thought for their safety, but we rarely pay much attention to those thoughts. A series of chains would definitely have come in handy back then.


The views down into the Canyon in both directions

Where Angels Landing has you some 1000 feet above the canyon floor, the Narrows has you hiking through the Virgin River itself. Come equipped with a walking stick and some old shoes (or the only shoes you own if you're like me) and enjoy a pretty unique and remarkable hike. In a lot of ways it reminded us of Wadi Mujib in Jordan, where you are in the water for almost the entirety of the hike, at some points wading though chest high water but for the majority only knee to waist deep. There is no real end point, rather you can hike in for a few hundred metres or a few miles. Like Wadi Mujib, the river winds its way through a narrow canyon, with remarkable features carved into the walls waiting around every corner. Hanging gardens burst forth from dramatically coloured walls, whilst off-shoot streams carve out mini canyons and small waterfalls cascade down from above.


The differing sections of the Narrows

These two hikes are what most people come to Zion for, but there are a multitude of other jaw dropping hikes on offer throughout the park. Given we 'had' to be in the park for four days so we caught the rest of the NBA Finals, we almost hiked every one available to us.


Getting 'deeper' into the canyon

The pick of the rest would easily be Observation Point. It would easily be the most strenuous of the hikes we did in Zion, but the viewpoint at the end is almost better than Angels Landing. Firstly you are higher than Angels, and secondly you are actually looking down on Angels and Big Bend (the iconic bend in the river that half the parks seem to have).


The rewarding views from Observation Point

Emerald Pools is another hike worth doing if you have the time. The trail takes yo up through a series of small pools, with Middle and Lower commanding views back down towards Zion Canyon, whilst the Upper is nestled in its own hanging garden, with a variety of greenery covering the rock walls.


Lower Pool of the Emerald Pools Hike
Given the time we had we also made it out to Kolob Canyons, the NE Section of the park that very few seem to get out to. The Taylor Creek Trail was surprisingly enjoyable. Given the amount of hiking we had been doing over the past week, and knowing it was our last morning in the park before we hit civilization, I almost couldn't be bothered. But given we had driven out there I felt compelled and as mentioned it turned out to be well worthwhile.

The trail takes you past two historic homestead cabins, crisscrossing Taylor Creek and finishing at Double Arch Alcove, two natural openings in the colourful Navajo sandstone. There is a surprising abundance of foliage along the hike which given the temps we had been experiencing was half the reason the hike was so pleasant.

Double Arch Alcove
Zion is definitely a place you want to give yourself maximum time at. It's breathtaking, it's awe-inspiring, it's a place to immerse yourself in the grandeur and beauty of the natural surroundings. It is Utah's first national park, and it still remains one of it's best.


Zion's Temples and Towers (l-r): West Temple, Sundial, Alter of Sacrifice & Beehive

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

Bryce Canyon National Park: An Unexpected Beauty

Bryce Amphitheater
We didn't really know what to expect coming into Bryce Canyon. I hadn't known anyone to have spoken of it in high regard, or anyone really speaking of it at all. But it is a park within the Colorado Uplift so you could assume it's worth a look over at least.

Arriving late and pretty wrecked from our hike out of the Grand Canyon, we were hoping against reason that we might be able to score a campsite within the park. As it had just hit summer holidays in the U.S. we didn't like our chances but we managed to get the last campsite available. And as luck would have it, a friendly fella down the road had satellite radio and was listening to Game 4 of the NBA finals. I couldn't have asked for better luck… well it would have been nice to hear the Cavs take Game 4 but still at least I was back up to date with the important matters of the world.

Bryce Canyon is a place that you really only need half a day for, but we had time on our hands so we made the most of this breathtaking park. I imagine the sunrise within the park, over Bryce Amphitheater would be incredible but we aren't what you would call 'morning people', especially after the hectic few days we had just had.

Queens Garden
Still we got up early'ish and enjoyed the morning out in the Amphitheater. And it is incredible. Much like the Needles section of Canyonlands, the amphitheater is filled with these remarkable rock formations called hoodoos. The difference here is the orange colour that dominates the scenery. Whereas most of the landscapes within the Colorado Uplift are dominated by reds and browns, and more darker shades, Bryce Canyon has this remarkable orange and white that I have never seen before.


Navajo Loop Trail

We walked down into the Amphitheater and wound our way into Queens Garden and Wall Street via the Navajo Loop Trail, taking our time to marvel at the different hoodoos, shaped and weathered into statuesque features over millions of years.


Silent City
The hike is pretty pleasant but the walk out, up Wall Street, is pretty steep and there were a few muppets struggling along the way. We spent the rest of the morning driving along the scenic route to the ends of the park, but if you're pushed for time you only need to hike around the amphitheater to get the most out of it.

View back down to Wall Street
Although you only need half a day or a day at most, I would recommend spending the night in Bryce Canyon, that way you can have somewhat of a relaxing day before you hit the rigours of Zion. And given you need to be in Zion early to secure a camp site, Bryce is the logical spot given it's an hour or so away. Oh and did I mention it's stunning.

Wall of Windows, the Cathedral and Bryce Point