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| Big Bend and Angels Landing (the razorback) viewed from Scout's Lookout |
Zion was billed as
one of the best parks in the U.S. and probably one we had the highest
expectations of. Everyone knows of Yellowstone and Yosemite, but
those you meet on the 'National Parks' tour always rave about Zion.
Where Zion tends to
differ from the others, is that to see the highlights of Zion you
actually have to be a 'hiker'. What this means is that the
'strenuous' category hikes you usually go on to escape the mob, are
where the mob flock too. Not that this is a bad thing, because like
all 'must see' sights, there's a pretty good reason they are labeled
as such.
Now obviously, we,
like everyone else who visits Zion, loved it. But it wasn't love at
first sight, but things just had a way of working themselves out.
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| Canyon Overlook (l-r): Bridge Mountain, West Temple, Alter of Sacrifice, the Streaked Wall & the Sentinel |
Knowing how popular
Zion is we tried to get in as early as possible, problem was everyone
else had the same idea. We missed out on a campsite within the park
by less than half an hour. But following the advice from one of the
rangers we tried one of the RV parks just outside the park
boundaries. And luck would have it we got the last 'tent' site which
had just been vacated and happened to be right on the Virgin River.
The added bonus to being in an RV park was, although it's a little
more expensive, you do get running water, which meant shower tokens
and the possibility of hot showers. And more importantly we found out
a place that would be showing the NBA Finals – priorities people,
priorities! Pity that didn't quite work out how I would have liked,
but you get that.
We checked in here
for the weekend nights and then using the wifi of the RV Park,
reserved two nights back in the park. Given our penchant for living
on the cheap side, and our proximity to the river, we saved one of
the tokens each and planned to sneak back into the RV park later in
the week and enjoy a 'stolen' shower or two – ah the good life!
Now Zion has two
major highlights and they are as good as it gets. Angels Landing and
the Narrows are both completely different, in fact you couldn't get
two more vastly different hikes, but both rank up there in the top
hikes we have done in the U.S.
Angels Landing and its razorback final section
Billed as one of the
most thrilling and memorable hikes in the national park system,
Angels Landing is not for the fainthearted, but this didn't seem to
have a huge effect on how many punters were keen to give it a crack.
After making your way up 'Walter's Wiggles', a series of 21
morale-sapping switchbacks, you come to Scout's Lookout. Here you are
provided with impressive views of Zion Canyon, but more impressive is
the sight of your final 0.5 miles of the hike – a narrow sandstone
ridge up the backbone of Angels Landing. With 1000 feet drops on
either sides, and no guard rails, and the way up assisted by a series
of chains, rarely is such an intimidating hike frequented by so many.
But the views in every direction give you an idea why so many attempt
it. The hike is probably more intimidating from afar than it is up
close but it's still pretty daunting nonetheless.
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| Panoramic view from the top |
Nic said it was
probably the second most hairy hike we have done. The first was one
we never should have attempted: back in Cinque Terre where a recent
rockslide had made the path impassable to most people with half a
thought for their safety, but we rarely pay much attention to those
thoughts. A series of chains would definitely have come in handy back
then.
The views down into the Canyon in both directions
Where Angels Landing
has you some 1000 feet above the canyon floor, the Narrows has you
hiking through the Virgin River itself. Come equipped with a walking
stick and some old shoes (or the only shoes you own if you're like
me) and enjoy a pretty unique and remarkable hike. In a lot of ways
it reminded us of Wadi Mujib in Jordan, where you are in the water
for almost the entirety of the hike, at some points wading though
chest high water but for the majority only knee to waist deep. There
is no real end point, rather you can hike in for a few hundred metres
or a few miles. Like Wadi Mujib, the river winds its way through a
narrow canyon, with remarkable features carved into the walls waiting
around every corner. Hanging gardens burst forth from dramatically
coloured walls, whilst off-shoot streams carve out mini canyons and
small waterfalls cascade down from above.
The differing sections of the Narrows
These two hikes are
what most people come to Zion for, but there are a multitude of other
jaw dropping hikes on offer throughout the park. Given we 'had' to be
in the park for four days so we caught the rest of the NBA Finals, we
almost hiked every one available to us.
Getting 'deeper' into the canyon
The pick of the rest
would easily be Observation Point. It would easily be the most
strenuous of the hikes we did in Zion, but the viewpoint at the end
is almost better than Angels Landing. Firstly you are higher than
Angels, and secondly you are actually looking down on Angels and Big
Bend (the iconic bend in the river that half the parks seem to have).
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| The rewarding views from Observation Point |
Emerald Pools is
another hike worth doing if you have the time. The trail takes yo up
through a series of small pools, with Middle and Lower commanding
views back down towards Zion Canyon, whilst the Upper is nestled in
its own hanging garden, with a variety of greenery covering the rock
walls.
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| Lower Pool of the Emerald Pools Hike |
Given the time we
had we also made it out to Kolob Canyons, the NE Section of the park
that very few seem to get out to. The Taylor Creek Trail was
surprisingly enjoyable. Given the amount of hiking we had been doing
over the past week, and knowing it was our last morning in the park
before we hit civilization, I almost couldn't be bothered. But given
we had driven out there I felt compelled and as mentioned it turned
out to be well worthwhile.
The trail takes you
past two historic homestead cabins, crisscrossing Taylor Creek and
finishing at Double Arch Alcove, two natural openings in the
colourful Navajo sandstone. There is a surprising abundance of
foliage along the hike which given the temps we had been experiencing
was half the reason the hike was so pleasant.
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| Double Arch Alcove |
Zion is definitely a
place you want to give yourself maximum time at. It's breathtaking,
it's awe-inspiring, it's a place to immerse yourself in the grandeur
and beauty of the natural surroundings. It is Utah's first national
park, and it still remains one of it's best.
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| Zion's Temples and Towers (l-r): West Temple, Sundial, Alter of Sacrifice & Beehive |
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