The Maritimes & Newfoundland: Seeking the 'Real' Canadian Experience

Ten Mile Pond viewed from Gros Morne Mountain

It's pretty likely you'll be greeted with a "G'day" by the Garbo Express lifty in Whis (given Australian's penchant for shortening every word possible, that's the chairlift attendent on the Ganbanzo Express chairlift in Whistler if you're unsure). The guy who takes your order for a genuine Canadian Caesar and poutine combo at the local pub in Banff? More likely from Adelaide than Alberta. Canada is no secret to Australians. We flock to the ski resorts, especially in the south-western provinces, like Canadian geese to water. You'd be forgiven for thinking that 24 hour plane ride to get here was just a bad dream and you'd never left Australia. There's plenty of good reasons for this, but it sometimes felt like our 'Canadian experience' was a little watered down. 

We were well overdue to break out of the mold and so, perhaps seeking a more authentic Canadian experience, we headed east. The Maritime provinces are New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island (NB, NS & PEI in later references) and we also headed over to Newfoundland. There's a lot to love about these provinces. The ocean is never far away, the smaller population means cities are more like towns, and there are a multitude of different cultures being represented, including, Acadian, Scottish, Irish & English. 

The influences of these other cultures are obvious. For example, where else outside of Scotland or Ireland would you find a cèilidh (the traditional Gaelic social gathering) being advertised in every town hall you pass? We went out in St John's, the capital of Newfoundland, which has one of the highest bars per capita in North America. Yes, the locals say it's the highest, but I don't know if that's a compliment? A one-man-band was performing in one pub which was full of people who been at a charity golf day (it was getting to the messy stage, given one gentleman went over in front of us as we walked in) and it turned into an impromptu cèilidh right there and then. And later on, in the one of many Irish pubs, there were two guys singing gaelic folk songs which was really enjoyable.

St. John's Harbour viewed from Signal Hill

Contending with all this dancing and merrymaking, there is a lot of natural beauty we managed to take in. The Hopewell Rocks, NB, were strange rock formations eroded away over time by the ocean. In Cape Breton Highlands Provincial Park, NS, the Skyline trail afforded beautiful views of the ocean and highland area, as well as a close encounter with your friendly local moose. PEI's beaches are a mixed bag of sheer red bluffs and squeaky (literally!) white sand.  

Hopewell Rocks - home of the largest tides in the world

Cape Breton Highlands Provincial Park

Newfoundland was a real outdoor enthusiasts dream, with Gros Morne National Park being the jewel in the crown. We hiked up to the park's namesake, which involved scaling Ferry Gulch, replete with loose boulders as far as the eye could see. The view overlooking Ten Mile Pond was worth it! The short walk to Western Brook Pond was pleasant the second time around (the first time, the weather was not so nice), I only wish the guidebooks told you that 'that' photo (the one you see when you Google Gros Morne) was only accessible by spending $250+ to hire a private guide or hiking for 4-5 days!

Gros Morne National Park

We filled our cultural quota as well. One of the books I loved to read as a girl was Anne of Green Gables and no trip to PEI is complete without a trip to said Green Gables and the site of LM Mongomery's childhood home in Cavendish. Callum left me to my own devices and I wandered down the Homestead Trail and into the Haunted Woods (which if you've read the book, you'll know the reference!). 

Anne of Green Gables

Over in Newfoundland, we made the long drive along the Viking Trail up to L'Anse Aux Meadows, the only authenticated Viking site in North America and the earliest evidence of Europeans in North America. The site itself is small, it might even seem a little underwhelming after how far you've driven, but they've done a great job of recreating what the area might have looked like when the Vikings were settled there (which, we found out, was only for about ten years in total), and the costumed staff aren't as gimmicky as you'd think. All in all, was worth the journey!

L'Anse Aux Meadows

But, where was this 'real Canadian experience' I was seeking? In truth, we all know it doesn't really exist. There's no such thing. We could have looked all we liked but really, we found it in the community hip hop festival in Halifax, the cèilidh in that lively pub in St John's, and amongst the trees and waters of Gros Morne. Although, when it all comes down to it, I just took the last sip of my Tim Horton's coffee as I finish this, so maybe it doesn't get any more Canadian than that. Ay?