Chapada Diamantina: A Blue World

Ribeirão do Meio

We had changed our original plans in order to get to the national park of Chapada Diamantina and it was one of those decisions that you wish you made more of.

Chapada Diamantina is somewhat unique for a national park in that it has numerous towns situated within the park boundaries themselves. One of the best towns to set yourselves in is Lençóis, it offers days trips by car and foot to see the major highlights of the park without really roughing it.

Another major reason we changed our plans was to meet up with some friends and spend some more time with them. It turned out there was 11 of us in total and with a group that size came bargaining power.

One of the Israeli lads was fairly fluent in Portuguese and acted as the group's spokesperson and organised two days trips for half the price we could have got on our own - as always it’s about who you know!

The first day we headed to the south of the park and although we spent most of the day in the car, the two caves we visited were unbelievable.

The first, Poço Encantado, is an 8m deep cave filled with the most crystal clear turquoise blue water you could imagine. Its name means ‘Enchanted Pool’ and your impression is that it perfectly describes the feeling and mood you get as you descend to near water level. Half the water's mirrored surface is illuminated and reflects the cave walls above, whilst the darker side is clear enough to see the features buried beneath.

Poço Encantado

On sunny days a single beam of sunlight streaks through the walls to illuminate a solitary section of the water, generating more shades of blue than you can imagine. Fallen tree trunks and boulders lying on the pool bottom can be clearly seen, belying their 50m depths. You feel that if you were to fall in, you may never get back out.

Poço Azul

An underwater 'Gibsy"

The second is aptly named Poço Azul (Blue Pool), and after rigorously cleaning yourself in the showers provided, you descend some 15m and are able to snorkel through the cave and let your imagination run wild. I would have loved to have been able to dive down to explore the deeper depths of this pool but the Brazilians are trying to preserve the park as much as they can, and the toxins in our skin are polluting the waters of these underground pools to an extent where in a few years I don't think you will get the pleasure of even dipping your toe into the blue waters of the southern caves.

Exploring the depths of Poço Azul

The following day we explored the north of the park, which again was dominated by caves and pools but did not disappoint.

The first cave, Gruta da Torrinha, was filled with stalactites and stalagmites which are a marvel in themselves. Dressed as Bob the Builder (in multi-coloured hard hats) we descended some 60m to the cave's depth and explored the numerous caverns and speleothems (cave formations).

Gruta da Torrinha

An up close look at a few of Gruta da Torrinha's stalactites

We were then treated to Pratinha where for an added few dollars you could snorkel through another blue cave, but for free you could splash about in the crystalline water of Lagoa Azul and chase the surprisingly abundant fish around and enjoy a picnic on the water edge

Blue Cave at Pratinha

Blue Lagoon at Pratinha

Nic and I were lucky enough to beat the crowds and spend 20 minutes or so by ourselves in yet another blue cave (or grotto), again aptly named Gruta Azul. We were able to sit by the water’s edge with only a few lonely fish for company and watch the sun pass overhead casting the water a deeper, more royal blue as it went.

Gruta Azul...

...all to ourselves

We then made our way back towards Lençóis and refreshed ourselves with a dip in Poço do Diabo (Devil’s Pool) with the Rio Mucugezinho flowing into it. It reminded me a lot of the Kimberly waterfalls and rock pools I was lucky enough to grow up with. You can relax underneath the waterfall’s edge, or enjoy a free massage from the falls themselves, or simply laze about on the rocky ledges surrounding the pool.

Poço do Diabo

Poço do Diabo & Rio Mucugezinho

We were rather quick to leave Poço do Diabo in order to make the climb up Morros do Pai Inácio for the sunset. From here you get a 360° view of the surrounding mountains and the greater Chapada Diamantina park. Although we weren’t treated to the most amazing of sunsets, sitting back watching the sky change colours whilst enjoying a beer or two, really is a great way to cap off the day. Throw in some extra relaxation stimulants, and you may have a hard time finding your way back down.

Chapada Diamantina viewed from Morros do Pai Inácio

Sunset over Chapada Diamantina

We sandwiched these two days of exploring the park between two days of exploring the immediate surrounds of Lençóis itself. On one side of the town the river meanders its way over some natural rock pools down into the town itself. 

Natural rock pools of Lençóis

On the other edge of town, a short 1 hour hike brings you to Ribeirão do Meio – a natural rock slide much like Cachoeira do Toboga in Paraty, which we enjoyed a few months back. This one was a little steeper and not as smooth, which resulted in faster speeds but a hell of a lot more torn skin and bruises in places you don’t want or need such injuries.

Ribeirão do Meio

You can’t always see everything, and we certainly only got a glimpse of what Chapada Diamantina has to offer, but it sure was more than we had originally intended. And for that, we consider ourselves pretty bloody lucky.

At heart, we are all just big kids!