Salvador: People Could Live Here

Palácio Rio Branco 

For those of you who don’t know, you are considered one of the lucky ones if you make it out of Salvador without being mugged or pick-pocketed.

Just to put things into perspective, weeks before the World Cup was scheduled to being, the police force in Salvador went on strike. The strike lasted 2 days and at least 39 murders were reported to have occurred during this 48 hour time period (yeah, close to one every hour). A local couple we met said they were living in a rather dicey neighbourhood so waited out the police strike in their apartment, not venturing outside until it was over. Luckily for them and the rest of the city, the strike only lasted the 2 days.

One might ask why we would have wanted to set foot in such a place.

Well, we sort of had to and barring any unscheduled police strikes, we were hoping to make it out of there unscathed. We took up residence in one of the new hostels right in the centre of the historic old town, thinking this would be in one of the safer neighbourhoods. Well it was and it wasn’t. The refurbished or well-maintained areas of the historic old town are relatively safe and there is a heavy police presence around, but one stray turn and you find yourself in the run down, dangerous side of the old town.

However, we felt safe enough during our short time in Salvador, and actually rather enjoyed it. The city itself is full of vibrant colours and friendly locals during the day, and the night hours can  be whiled away watching the sunset over the harbour or taking in the sounds and smells of the street vendors and performers in the main squares and steps of the old town.

The tourist side of the Pelourinho (the Historic Centre)

We did an unusual walking tour that took you through these so called dangerous areas, where with the exception of a few ‘no go streets’ were no different from the ‘tourist’ areas of the old town, except quieter and less people hassling you. Yes many of the buildings are derelict and close to falling down, but unfortunately the money just isn’t there to restore them, and given they are in a UNESCO heritage listed area, no renovations of the facades is allowed, only restoration, and restoration usually comes at a higher cost.

The local side of the Pelourinho 

'Aqui Podia Morar Gente'

A lot of the residents of these poorer streets are squatters, with multiple families co-inhabiting the same building; buildings that had been left unused for years before them. These buildings sit adjacent to others that are completely abandoned and in desperate need of restoration as they risk collapsing in on themselves and bringing the neighbouring houses down with them. These abandoned buildings are marked with painted placards that read ‘aqui podia morar gente’ (people could live here) – a frustrated protest by the locals who have been promised revitalisation and restoration of so many buildings to liveable standards but are stuck instead with the empty promises of a corrupt government and the worrying knowledge that the neighbouring building will eventually collapse, possibly taking their house, home and livelihood with it, leaving them with death and destruction in its place.

It’s a sad state of affairs when your government cares more about the foreigners who might visit the city, than the city itself and its inhabitants. But I guess that’s just Brazil.